We were up bright and early, driving into Doolin so we could catch our ferry boat to the largest of the Aran Islands, Inish More. The ride was quite smooth under cloudy skies that made the ocean look black.
Inish More is the largest of the Arans, about 9 miles by 3 miles. As soon as we got off the boat, we hopped on a small bus with a jovial driver named Gabriel that would take us on a tour of the island. We lucked out on our choice of buses as Gabriel was a native, both knowledgeable and funny. After growing up and going to school here, he spent several years fishing on big trawlers and then returned to marry and bring up his children. He also raises goats, so he is busy with kids and kids.
Inish Mor didn't get electricity until 1976. The island is so rocky, the only reason there is any soil is that farmers have painstakingly created it. After clearing out rocks they bring seaweed, sand and animal dung and over the centuries, soil has been created. There are 3000 miles of rock walls on the island, even though law has prohibited anyone from building new walls for the last 100 years.
The rock walls are carefully stacked, not cemented together, with spaces between where the wind can blow through without knocking down the walls. The Aran Islands are very traditional. Gaelic is taught in grade school with English being introduced only in a child's third year. All signs are in Gaelic first, English second.
Our first stop was Dun Angeus, an ancient fort on spectacular cliffs
It was a long steady climb to the fort with the wind increasing as we climbed.
The wind was blowing so hard it felt like it could whip you right off the cliff.
I actually loved the wild weather that we had visiting Dun Angeus. I felt like we were going back centuries to an untamed place, home to Druids and Celts.
Another delicious mushroom not to eat
As we climbed down from the fort, Keith Kennedy struck his Country Squire pose.
One of the popular things for tourists to do on the island is to ride in a horse drawn cart or bicycle around. I felt very sorry for those who chose this transportation on this blustery wet day.
We ate another stellar meal in a small cafe near the fort. Our guide, Gabriel had told us not to miss it as it had been voted best restaurant in Ireland the prior year. It was a great place, though packed with so many people it was steamy inside, despite the cold weather. I ate a piece of Guinness infused chocolate cake that I am still dreaming about.
Our next stop was a place called Seven Churches. Only ruins remain among the headstones. As with the other cemeteries we visited in Ireland, ancient graves are scattered among modern ones. The oldest grave here was a Roman one from about 800 a.d.
This rocky island is both barren and beautiful, full of plants and flowers that don't grow anywhere else. There is always beauty amongst desolation.
There are some very old cottages on the island.
The ferry boat had to leave an hour early today because the ocean was getting choppy. It was an exciting ride back to Doolin but nobody got seasick.
On the ride back from Doolin to Ballyvaughn, we stopped at Fanore Beach. It is a rare sandy beach in this rocky country.
Two young men had just gone for a very brief, very cold dip in the ocean when we got there. I had no desire to get in.
We rented two cars to get all three couples around during our time in Ireland. Keith Brook drove Mark and I and Keith Kennedy drove Carol and Yvonne. We really enjoyed our time visiting Keith while he tirelessly drove us everywhere.
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